BEST QUALITY UNIVERSAL CAPSTAN MOTOR - Most Cassette Decks - 2.0mm Shaft - JAPAN

Description

Pacific Stereo Universal Capstan Motor
Fits many, many cassette decks, the highest quality you can buy
Made by Matsushita (Panasonic/Technics) for Pioneer
Configured to rotate in CCW direction, can be changed to CW on request
LAST BATCH AVAILABLE ON eBAY (see listing)
Is your cassette deck suffering with an old, worn-out motor?   Did you tear your motor apart to service or lube it, only to accidentally clobber it?  I am beyond excited to be able to offer something very special to cassette deck enthusiasts everywhere.
If you have a single-well, non-dubber, non-high-speed deck (even most portable ghetto-blasters can use this), this motor will very likely work for you and fit your deck.  Note that if you have a direct-drive mechanism, a two-speed deck, a deck that performs high-speed dubbing or a deck that incorporates pitch control,
this motor will not work in your machine.
It's designed for the most common of vintage decks, that being singe-well, standard speed models.
Suppose you could change out your crummy generic motor to one of the best capstan motors ever made?  Suppose the new motor would outlast the old one by at least a factor of three?  If you've got one of those decks that spins the capstan whenever the deck is on, this can definitely matter!  Suppose you could audibly improve wow, flutter and overall speed stability with a better motor?
Well, now you can.  Now, there is something that will indeed last longer and work better.  I have procured a limited supply of one of the best motors ever made, and the great thing is that almost anyone can use it, no matter what deck you have.  This motor will even fit many classic portable units.
There are a lot of folks offering inexpensive Mabuchi capstan motors.  Yuck!  I've tested these, and found them to be absolutely unsuitable for all but the most junky decks.  I could not ever get decks I was working on to come close to wow/flutter and stability specifications and that was totally unsatisfactory for customers.  I couldn't give their decks back sounding like a warbly 8mm movie.  So I looked and looked for a solution, because I needed a motor that WORKED.  Well, that solution is the Pacific Stereo Universal Capstan Motor.  If you look at the photos, you'll notice a couple of things.   One is that the Pacific Stereo motor is bigger.  It also has a longer shaft for the belt pulley, making it more adaptable to more units.  But the best part is that it is completely isolated from the outer case by a rubber insert.  It's a case within a case, and not only is there reduced electromagnetic interference because of this construction (there is also a mu-metal shield inside), there is much-reduced mechanical noise, too.  You just won't believe how quiet this motor is.
One of the things that makes this motor so stable is the drive electronics, combined with a unique brush and commutator arrangement.  The ONLY brushed motor that will outperform this one is a true FG-type motor (exceptionally rare, even 30 years ago), and this one is dang-near as good.  If you look at the photos, you can see a comparison of the drive electronics of the Pacific motor vs a typical generic (in this case, that Mabuchi motor).
The brushes make a huge difference.  Again, if you look at the photos, you'll see the difference between the typical Mabuchi motor and the UCM.  The paper-thin brushes of the Mabuchi are no match for the robust and thick UCM brushes.  In addition, because the UCM brushes are in the rotational plane (not perpendicular like most motors), the commutator and brush interface runs at a much lower speed, further improving stability and life.
This motor was made for Pioneer by Matsushita (Panasonic).
You're probably wondering if you can use it.  You very likely can, just look inside your deck.   If you have a typical brush-type motor (not a direct-drive motor or deck with pitch control), and it runs on anything from 9 to 14.4 volts, you should be able to use this motor.   I have not tested above 14.4 volts, but I don't see any reason why you couldn't go a smidge above, as the regulator transistor is heat-sinked to the outside of the motor case and the case can dissipate a significant amount of heat.  There are also things you can do to reduce the supply voltage if yours is unusually high, I can help with that.
One thing to be aware of.  Really old decks might use a pulley shaft that is larger than 0.078" (2.0mm), they're usually 0.098" (2.5mm).  Some decks that use a shaft this size are the older Pioneer CT-F series (9191, 8282, etc).  Some other older decks use this pulley shaft size as well.  Also, the newest cheapie decks with the latest really inexpensive motors might have a thinner shaft, and you would have to find another pulley to work with this motor.  If you have one of these decks, this motor won't work for you.  If you need a motor with a 2.5mm shaft,
see this listing.
SPECS:
Input voltage: 9-14.4 volts, DC
Diameter: 1.54"
Case height (length): 1.34"
Shaft length: 0.42"
Shaft diameter: 0.078" (2.0mm)
Nominal RPM: 2400 (adjustable)
Rotation (viewed from top of motor): CCW, can be changed to CW on request
Things to do and know:
Almost all "modern" decks use a motor similar to this. Mounting hole spacing on motors of this size is standardized.
Make sure you have adequate clearance for both the length and diameter of the UCM, and if not, look at possible ways to modify (perhaps move a board slightly or snip off a corner, required in some Nakamichis).  For some Pioneer Reference Master Mechanisms, you'll have to abandon the rubber-mounted plastic motor holder (if you have it) and find a set of standard rubber bushings and spacers (virtually every deck on the planet.  Find a scrap unit.) to mount the motor directly on the backplate.
This motor cannot substitute for a direct-drive motor, nor can it be used in a deck with pitch control (unless you are willing to make some modifications and forgo that feature).
It also cannot be used in dubbers that have two speeds or other two-speed decks.
To determine if you need a clockwise or counter-clockwise motor, you need to look inside your deck and see how the motor is mounted. Most decks mount the motor on the same side of the chassis as the flywheel. If this is how yours is mounted, then in almost all cases, you need a CCW motor.   If the motor is mounted on the capstan side of the chassis (most top-loaders are like this) then you need a CW motor.   If there is any doubt, just observe which way the belt moves in relation to the top of the motor when the deck is playing a tape.
You should check the operating voltage of your current motor with a simple meter.  You can buy an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight Tools that will work just fine.  If it is within 9-14.4 volts, you're good.  Also, many motors have their operating voltage listed right on the label, so this should be easy to check.  You also need to check polarity, as wire colors don't mean anything!  Some decks run the motor off of the negative supply, and in this case, the UCM would be wired in reverse to what one might think.  Use your meter to be sure you know the polarity of your supply and what's on what wire.
If the motor supply voltage is higher than 14.4 volts, then depending upon how high it is, you can do a couple of things.  You can insert 1N4000-series diodes (I can supply these if you need me to) in series to lose about 0.55 volts per diode to drop the voltage to a usable level, or if it's very high, you can use a simple LM7812 three-terminal regulator in series with the motor supply, mounted to a convenient place on the chassis to take heat away from the part.   I can also help you with implementing this solution, just ask.
Be sure to note the height of your motor pulley in relation to the top of the motor body, not the top of the motor shaft.  Do this BEFORE you take it off the old motor!  You want to put the pulley back in the same position relative to the flywheel; the shaft on the UCM may be longer than that of the original motor, so you can't use that as a reference.
Make sure that your motor shaft is 2.0mm.  THIS MOTOR WILL NOT REPLACE MOTORS THAT HAVE SMALLER OR LARGER SHAFTS. If you need a motor with a 2.5mm shaft,
see this listing.
The Pacific Stereo Universal Cassette Motor is one of the finest capstan motors ever made, and if your motor is bad, you simply cannot buy a better one anywhere.  Supplies are limited, so bring your deck back to life with the Pacific Stereo UCM while it is available!
NOTE: this motor is shipped to operate in CCW (when viewed from the top [shaft] side of the motor) rotation.  It cannot be reversed in the field by simply reversing the supply wires.  Doing that
WILL BLOW THE MOTOR UP
.  Again, supply polarity is critical.
If you need a CW motor, be sure to let me know.
If you do end up needing a motor that rotates in the opposite direction from the one you received, contact me and I'll supply instructions to allow you to make the change in the field.
THIS IS THE LAST BATCH THAT WILL BE AVAILABLE ON eBay.
The supply of these motors is dwindling.  In addition, eBay is demanding that sellers move to their Managed Payments system, and I do not intend to do that.  So when this listing is gone, it's over and I will be gone, too.  When that happens, Google will be your friend.
TERMS
This item is sold
AS IS
, and there are no expressed or implied warranties.  Please note that while this motor is of exceptionally high quality and works well in almost every application, there are no guarantees. It is a universal "one-size-fits-all" type replacement part, not an exact duplicate of whatever you might already have in your deck and performance is not guaranteed in your application. Returns are not offered nor accepted.  I have made every effort to describe the item honestly and accurately.  Contact me if you have questions about the auction, terms, or the item.
About feedback:  I am delighted to leave feedback, but now I only leave it after you do.
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